Day 4: The Great Wall

Day 4: Great Wall

As a social studies teacher, one principle of economics we teach (and resonates with) students is opportunity cost. Simply put, this term values one's choice in comparison to all the other things that could be done with our limited resources, namely time and money. 

I'm reminded of many of the opportunity costs of being abroad: on my news feed today, I saw pictures of when Liam (my student-research-partner) and I went to visit Utah Beach and the beauty that is Normandy just one year ago. Five of my very best friends are congregating for our now 12th Mancation, a time when we can just get together as guys and have as much fun as we did throughout college (and, as kids add to the picture, we're glad to at least have one day built into the calendar for that). Similarly, I saw a picture of my son and wife with her family who I haven't seen in a year. I also know there are dozens of boxes in our garage as we gear up to move and still struggle to find a renter for our home. 

These are all opportunities that are great ones, and each of which I'm missing out on to be here in China. And, that cause has produced an effect that makes me appreciate all that I'm permitted to explore and experience even more.

If yesterday was something special, today was a bit once-in-a-lifetime noteworthy. We traveled about 75 minutes to reach the Great Wall of China, and it is one of the few places that lives up to its very high expectations. The construction and quality of this section of wall is quite impeccable. I don't know how old it is, but the masonry and structure is still sound enough that it could be the stone ground of your back patio and you wouldn't question walking on (many of the portions) bare foot. Granted, I know that many parts of this 4,000 mile structure that defines an entire people has dilapidated to the point of complete ruin and disrepair (and the Chinese government knows this too, so it sends you to this part), but one cannot help but be impressed. Not just the fact that the structure was built, but that this heavy stone was transported up this intense mountaintops. I totally made so many "Wall" connections in Game of Thrones, but, instead of keeping out the White Walkers, the Chinese wanted to keep out the Mongolians. Hopefully the Knight's Watch will have better success than the Red Guard.

Despite its failed functionality, the views, the hike, and the geography isn't impressive. It's a marvel. I don't use that word often, but the Great Wall elicits nothing less than pure, mouth-agape awe. This isn't just figurative - it's literal, too! When one mounts the 6-person enclosed "ski lift," they travel some 5,000 feet (I think, but need to double check) to the base of the hill. From there, hikers can choose to travel right (as most take the mostly downhill route) or hike left uphill. And it's some intense uphill, with at least 5 stairs being pretty much vertical interface. I'm not in the best shape of my life, but I'm in better shape than most, and I needed to take plenty of breaks in order to catch my breath. Understand that the view took some if it away, but the sheer cliff of the hike was a testament of will itself. Approximately 7 of us took the Wall as far as we could comfortably go, which is beyond the officially, up-kept point on the wall. This was I believe guard turret 24, and there's a picture of us there that says "You've reached the peak of the wall." That was good enough for us, because the trickiest part of this ancient structure is probably going down. The drops vary from well developed steps for this size 12 foot to choppy mini-steps to simple but 30+ degree downward slopes. There was a bit of fear that my knees - or my calves - were going to give out on the descent, so I literally started to run to simply "grease the joints." Of course, all that time I'm taking mini-breaks to simply take in this splendor that pictures alone cannot correctly capture. 

Afterward, we had to descend not just back to the cable car, but approximately another 2 miles in the other direction until we reach the open ski lift or - even better - the toboggan ride. Now that was a load of fun! I ended up coming down with Jennie (Maryland) and Mandy (Washington), and I'm hoping I get a copy of Jennie's illegally made video of our downward adventure. It was a pretty darn fun way to end our time there. 

LUNCH

After that, we ate at a nearby eatery,, and it was our best location yet. Grilled eggplant soaked in soy sauce, chicken and ginger, encrusted fish fillet, sweet and sour cake chicken, and plenty of vegetables and stir fries made for a great way to replenish the calories we burned hiking about 6 miles. Best of all -- they served German hefeweizen! Chinese beer, as you'll read when I finish my culture post, makes Miller Lite feel like a premium choice. Oddly enough Alex, our EF leader and token Deutsch on the trip - didn't partake in the suds. He drank Gatorade. I am hate-orating on him with this mention.

After lunch we hopped back on the bus and experienced our first intense Chinese traffic. What was an hour-plus ride to the Wall was about 2-plus hours. I apologized to Laticia (Colorado's TOY and one of the friendliest of all these friendly teachers in this group) for being completely drenched in sweat and possibly stinking. She didn't seem to mind, and we had just as great a conversation from the Wall as we did to it.

TEA CEREMONY

Our voyage took us next to a tea ceremony room, where we first were asked to debrief. This was one of those "discuss in small groups and then share as a large group." My fear was that this was going to take a while, because, well, we teachers tend to be quite verbose. However, it wasn't too bad. Except for the fact that our card that we received was one that asked "What's one question you have based upon your experience here in China?" Our group - Roger (Wisconsin), Melissa (Georgia), and I developed 3 different questions. I'll let the readers speculate which one was mine:

1. How don't people develop more illnesses based upon the dirtiness of the bathroom? -- For those of you looking for an explanation, the Chinese like the squatty potty, but they throw their used TP and feminine products in an open trash can next to it, and they often don't clean the bathrooms or the floors but with water on a mop.
2. Why do you have to haggle for everything? -- Unlike most American transactions, nearly everything is like a home or car transaction. The "price" is not the actual price. I just bought an ice cream cone for 5 yuan after the seller told me it was 10 and I offered her 3.
3. Why don't the Chinese get into more traffic accidents? -- In a city of 24 million and traveling plenty so far this trip, we've only seen one Land Rover with his hood bent up in an accident. Pedestrians freely cross the street in the midst of others driving, and our bus driver regularly made 5-point turns across major highways without people getting ticked or throttling their accelerator pedal. I watched a dude walk through an 8-lane highway and thought he was going to be hit and killed, but I - the pedestrian on the sidewalk - was the one who ran into a pylon and smashed my leg.

Afterward, we had the opportunity to sample some of China's most unique and notable cuisine - its tea. We tried 5 different kinds of tea today, beginning with a ginseng oolong and ending with a fruit tea. Like the pearl factory, we got to experience the show before heading to the gift shop and handing over our cards. I couldn't resist the porcelain cup with strainer for 130 yuan (about $20) and the fruit tea, which you actually get to eat as you drink (220 yuan for about 2 lbs, or about $28). I know if Devin doesn't enjoy it (and she will), it's one of the rare herbal teas that I've tasted and will gladly enjoy over and again.

DINNER & EXHAUSTION

All day I felt like such a slime ball because the Great Wall took so much out of me. In addition to burning a few thousand calories, I felt like I played 3 games of pick-up basketball and, instead of going home to shower and relax, my family took me out for dinner. Sure, I enjoyed it. And yes, "Crazy Street" in Beijing's "Time Square" was neat to see, but I really just wanted to get home and give myself a rest. Sad to say that it's now approaching 11p here in Beijing and I'm catching that second-wind I have no interest in reaching. 

My favorite part of the evening was sitting with Linda (Nebraska), as I hadn't much experience working or talking with her at all during our February workshop, online program, or so far in our journey. She's a really funny lady and devoted teacher. Most of all, when she learned she was selected to go on our trip, she put in lots of hard work over the last 6 months and lost 70 pounds so she could climb the Great Wall. I'm so proud of her to take on that difficult task and accomplish it, and she was beaming with a smile all day. It was infectious to everyone, even if they didn't know of her accomplishment.

Finally we made it back to the hotel at 9:30p. It was too late to call Devin, so after a brief (and well-deserved) shower, I packed my bags so we can make for an early departure to experience some Tai Chi with the locals in the morning and then we fly to Xian, a 2-hour westward flight to China's ancient capital and the site of the Terra Cotta Warriors.